@ThisRandomGuyYouDidntNotice
tbh what i like to do is treat a prototype as such, meaning don't print the whole piece! rather test-print segments. just print one slot until you're happy with the fit. then print a small piece of the wall until it matches the sides of the cartridge. lastly combine them and print the whole piece. those small segments print faster and waste less material :)
@LoriAnneBrown
Glad to know I'm not the only one that prints and reprints and reprints tests of my designs! I like my record at the moment is 12 but it does add up fast! Elegoo matte is my goto filament right now. Prints well and is what I offer most of my products in too.
@TheFoxalot
I’m surprised you don’t have 100k subs if not more. Besides the great info, the whole video editing is awesome over most on YT. Ty and look forward to the next one!
@dizzle8465
I love this channel! Great video! There are so many different people to learn from but I can easily admit I'd much prefer to learn it all from you. I just wanna buy a course from you so I can watch and learn from you for hours 😅 I'm on the Bambu side of things and I'd be over the moon to learn about tuning printers for different filaments. I just recently bought my first printers a month ago (x1c, p1s, a1) and one of the next things on my lengthy roadmap to familiarizing myself with these printers is how to tune, how to benchmark, etc.
@mikewazowski350
There is a lot of wasted filament in this industry. There needs to be a recycling program from the community As for your print job for the Nintendo cartridges, I would have designed it so that I could have used rubber inserts, sort of like the rubber flaps you find in a cup holder in your car.
@rodneysmith1750
Great video today. You make some very valid points, and thanks for the tip on the filament, I wonder if it is available through Amazon Mexico, they seem to be a bit behind the times in some cases... Just checked, it is not currently available, so I'll stick with Elegoo for now, don't care for their cardboard rolls though.
@Vinz3ntR
Honestly, most basic profiles are a middle of the road solution. You need to do calibrations for every filament and every filament type you use. My prints with the basic profiles look mostly ok but become stunning after tuning. It's just part of the process at this time, you can't have it all. Your prints might be ok but have the potential to be much better. Also, all my tuned profiles can print up to twice as fast and still come out better that the standard profile so it's worth investing some time (an hour is goed enough when you've done it multiple times). The filament profile can be used again for that specific filament
@tonyoslund5700
Deeplee is a rebrand of the elegoo filaments. Their Rapid PLA+, and PLA have become my go to PLA filaments because of the ease of printing and consistent high quality across my different brands of printers. It is not brittle, does not break easily and I am 100% confident I can run a multi day print without issues. It is so good that I have contacted Elegoo requesting more colors. Literally only reason I use other brands is when I need a different color. Have run with stock settings with good to very good results. With only minor calibration (temp, pressure advance, flow ratio, etc) have run with excellent results. I tune all my filaments. Only Esun PLA+ has come close to the consistent results of the Elegoo filaments. Difference is Elegoo filaments don't smell when printing, Esun does.
@R_mix19
Do you have a Sovol SV06 Plus Ace by any chance? Would love to see some content on it
@Gorkilein
If you really had any idea of prototyping you would have just included a slightly angked wall so it fits always tight no matter what the dimensions.
@Bitcoinvalor
I have been keeping my filament waste in organized bags, trying several different brands and types and want the opportunity to reuse if I ever get a filament maker or know someone with the equipment. I really like the higer-end flashforge filament like Abyssal Purple. On a diff subject, I have a feeling you are familiar with Davinci Resolve editor. Would you consider doing a tutorial in the same style as the blender tutorial (the other tutorials are shite)? I know it doesn't go with the channel lol. Great content as always, have a good one!
@peaceorpieces8343
For help with this design or ones like it, if you ask chatgbt for a bottom model of a super Nintendo game cartridge so i can make a stand in tinkercad it game me this...Here are the precise measurements for a PAL Super Nintendo (SNES) game cartridge to assist you in designing a stand using Tinkercad. --- 📏 Cartridge Dimensions (PAL SNES) Width: 127.75 mm Height: 87 mm Thickness: 20 mm --- 🔻 Bottom Slot (Connector Opening) Width of Slot: 97.75 mm Depth of Slot: Approximately 5 mm Position from Bottom Edge: Slot begins 28.9 mm from the bottom of the cartridge --- 🔘 Curved Edge Radius Side Edge Radius: Approximately 12.5 mm --- 📐 Front Indentation (Label Area) Width: 69.85 mm Height: 5.05 mm Depth: Approximately 3 mm at the edges, increasing to about 4 mm towards the center --- 🪛 Screw Hole Details Screw Hole Diameter: 3.8 mm (compatible with Gamebit screwdriver) Position: Located near the bottom corners on the front face of the cartridge --- 🛠️ Tips for Tinkercad Modeling Base Platform: Design a base slightly larger than the cartridge dimensions, e.g., 130 mm x 90 mm, to ensure stability. Slot Cutout: Incorporate a slot in the base that matches the bottom connector opening (97.75 mm wide, 5 mm deep) to allow the cartridge to sit securely. Support Structures: Add vertical supports on either side of the slot to hold the cartridge upright. Ensure these supports are at least 20 mm high to match the cartridge thickness. Curved Edges: Use the "Radius" feature in Tinkercad to replicate the 12.5 mm curved edges for a snug fit. --- For visual reference, you can view a comparison of SNES cartridge bottoms here: Feel free to ask if you need further assistance with the design or modeling process!
@imacmill